Acadia National Park

Wednesday, 29 July 2026

Our final stop on this trip was Acadia National Park in Maine. We had planned to camp for three nights and ride bikes on the carriage roads in the park, but weather and crowds had other plans. The park is unusual in that the area has a patchwork of public and private lands, small towns, non-park public roads, and poor signage spread out over many islands and peninsulas that make driving around a challenge. 

We couldn't find a parking place at the Visitor Center, but we were able to get a park map when we entered our campground on Tuesday evening, so we decided our best bet was to travel the one-way park road and pull out from time-to-time. Easier said than done since the popular sites had cars pulled over for a mile down the road. Nevertheless, we were able to pull out a couple of times. This was the view from the Egg Rock Overlook.

Egg Rock itself is a small isle with a lighthouse. In past times, these islands were a source of food - bird eggs - hence the name.

A closer look at the Egg Rock Lighthouse.

We were able to snag a parking place in the Otter Point parking lot and take a few minutes to walk around Otter Point and Otter Cove.

The shoreline of Otter Cove.

Otter Point.

We had also booked a timed-entry to Cadillac Mountain, but rather than seeing a spectacular 360° panorama, we just saw dense fog.

Back at our campsite, we had a visitor - a red squirrel ("fairydiddle" in West Virginia speak).

After a frustrating day and the prediction of rain and fog for tomorrow, we decided to pack up camp and leave in the morning - a day early - and make one more stop in Maine before heading home.

How can you pass by Freeport, Maine, and not stop at the L.L. Bean Flagship Store? We did, but the store is under renovation - due to re-open on September 18. Currently the main store is in an enormous tent. At least we got to see the Bootmobile.

Bay of Fundy

Sunday, 19 July, Monday, 28 July, and Tuesday, 29 July 2026

The Bay of Fundy is noted for having the most extreme tides on Earth. We wanted to check it out!

Tidal Bores

When the incoming high tide meets the flow of a shallow river, a tidal bore can form where the two streams meet. The bore can travel many miles upstream. We viewed the tidal bore at two different locations on two different days. The size (and thus the impressiveness) of the bore depends upon the position of the moon and the weather. We were at a time when the moon was farther away from the earth (apogee), and thus the gravitational influence was considerably less than had the moon been at perigee (nearest point in its orbit).

On Monday, 27 July we went to the Fundy Discovery Site near Truro, NS, on the Salmon River. We saw the wave (above), but underwhelming isn't weak enough to describe the experience.

On Tuesday, 28 July we went to the Bore Park viewing stand in Moncton, NB. This time the bore was marginally better. We could hear the wave for at least a minute before it came in view. However, it was worth it just to hear the program presented by the National Park ranger in impeccable English and French. An impressive performance!

The bore wave passes the viewing stands.

Hopewell Rocks - Low Tide and High Tide

On Sunday, 19 July, we went to Hopewell Rocks, near Moncton, NB to see the Bay of Fundy at low tide. On Tuesday, 29 July, we returned an hour-or-so before high tide.

Low tide. Note the size of people wandering around the beach and how high the seaweed comes up on the rocks.

Roughly the same view at high tide. We were surprised by how muddy the water was.

Low tide. You can walk through the hole in the rocks.

High tide. Now you have to kayak through the hole in the rocks.

Two more low tide/high tide photos, but not paired.

Low tide.

High tide.

And finally, a fun photo from Hopewell Rocks that has nothing to do with tides.

The paved path to the Hopewell Rocks Visitor Center presented a dizzying optical illusion of waves. Even Lon's foot placement suggests an uneven surface. But it is completely level.

Nova Scotia

Sunday, 26 July and Monday, 27 July 2026

We passed through Nova Scotia on our way between Prince Edward Island and New Brunswick - not enough time to really see NS.

Northumberland Strait as viewed from the ferry. We've had very calm waters on all of our ferry and boat trips this summer.

Coming into Caribou, NS.

After disembarking in Caribou, we drove up to Cape Breton Island, the northwest end of Nova Scotia, to visit Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Above is the Cabot Trail, a highway that encircles the end of Cape Breton Island and the national park.

The Skyline Trail in Cape Breton Highlands National Park requires a timed entry (and exit) for parking. We had reserved a 4 PM slot. Reforestation research is being conducted around the trail. This is the "moose exclusion" fence as seen from the observation tower on the trail. Forest regenerates much better when moose aren't munching on all the young trees.

There are two boardwalks on the Skyline Trail. This is the short one that passes over a bog.

The second boardwalk is much longer and descends 360 steps (I counted!) on a headland facing the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The boardwalk protects vulnerable vegetation from the large number of hikers on the trail.

The Cabot Trail highway.

The boardwalk is about 2200 ft long and winds its way down the mountain to the final lookout.

Looking back up at the top of the boardwalk.

Sunset on Cape Breton Island.

On Monday, we drove to Peggy's Cove, NS before ending the day in Moncton, NB.

Even though it was a weekday, Peggy's Cove was overrun with visitors. Traffic and parking were difficult. I guess we were spoiled by the low-key atmosphere of P.E.I.

A closer view of the Peggy's Cove Lighthouse.

Tip-to-Tip Bike Ride on Prince Edward Island

Sunday, 19 July through Sunday, 26 July 2026

We left our car in Charlottetown and rode for six days from the North Cape to the East Point on Prince Edward Island - an excellent ride coordinated through Crossroads Bike Tours. Most of the ride is along the Confederation Trail - a rail-trail that spans the island from Tignish in the northwest to Eureka in the east. Along the way we left the trail to see the "Anne of Green Gables" Heritage Center and Prince Edward Island National Park - both in/near Cavendish.

Sunday, 19 July 2026

To get to Prince Edward Island, we drove over the Confederation Bridge that connects New Brunswick to P.E.I. It is a long bridge - 8 miles, 12.9 km. Until it opened in 1997, the only way to get to P.E.I. was to take a ferry.

Monday, 20 July 2026

Our shuttle picked us up in Charlottetown and drove us to the North Cape Lighthouse, where we started our 6-day ride.

The North Cape Lighthouse.

The tide was coming in over the sand reef at North Cape - where the waters of the Northumberland Strait meet the Gulf of St. Lawrence.

From the North Cape we rode about 8 miles into the town of Tignish to start our ride on the Confederation Trail.

Tuesday, 21 July 2026

Except for getting to our night's lodging, we were on the Confederation Trail the entire day. The trail has a few ups-and-downs, but even for a rail trail, it is remarkably flat. (Of course, the highest point on the Island is only about 450 ft above sea level.) It is also exceptionally well-maintained.

There was a rest point (either table or bench) about every km. At least half of them were also under a shelter.

P.E.I. is largely agricultural. Fields of yellow canola (rape seed) flowers were striking. 

P.E.I. is also famous for potatoes. It seemed like half the Island was planted in potatoes. This field wasn't blooming, but by the time we left, the potato fields were covered in white flowers.

Wednesday, 22 July 2026

We were supposed to ride the Confederation Trail from Summerside to Winsloe today, but the weather was miserable - cool and stormy with about 1.25 inches of rain. So rather than ride 44 miles into a stiff headwind and rain, we called our shuttle and arranged a ride straight to our night's lodging in Cavendish. Good call!

Our inn (Kindred Spirits Inn) was a short (100 m) walk from the Green Gables Heritage Center, featuring all things "Anne of Green Gables" and Lucy Maud Montgomery. The house above belonged to L.M. Montgomery's cousins, and she used it as the model for Green Gables. It has been restored to capture the essence of the books rather than how it was furnished at the time Montgomery wrote. We were surprised to see that the house was not a frontier cabin, but a well-furnished farm house with plenty of space.

A path runs through the "Haunted Forest" (actually, a small woods) that separated "Green Gables" from the Montgomery house.

We saw lots of osprey nests in New Brunswick, P.E.I, and Nova Scotia. In places it seemed like every power pole had an osprey nest on top. This nest was near the Heritage Center and had two adults visiting regularly, and two large chicks visible at times.

Thursday, 23 July 2026

This was a short day of riding through Prince Edward Island National Park with lots of vivid scenery. A paved bike path follows the shore, with lots of opportunities to get off the bike and spend time with the ocean (the Gulf of St. Lawrence).

Maple-leaf red Adirondack chairs are everywhere in Canada. 

Cavendish Cliffs.

The red sand beach at MacNeill's Brook, with Cactus Pot rock (a sea stack also known as Teapot Rock and Teacup Rock) in the background.

A closer look at the rock.

Beach and cliffs at MacKenzie's Brook.

After riding to North Rustico (a distance of only about 9 miles), we took shelter from a rainstorm under a picnic shelter while we waited for our shuttle. The shuttle only took us about 12 miles, but it was along a busy highway, which would not have been very pleasant riding - especially in the rain.

Our night's accommodation was at the lovely Shaw's Hotel. It's been in the same family for generations, starting as a farm in 1793, and opening as a hotel in 1870. It has a private access to the beach, as well as a bay for kayaking and rowing. The food is very good, too!

Shaw's Beach with P.E.I.'s signature red sand.

Friday, 24 July 2026

Back on the Confederation Trail today. We're in the eastern part of the Island now - fewer trees and more wetlands - both brackish and fresh water - and more mosquitoes!

Marsh land.

Low tide along St. Peter's Bay reveals red sand and green algae.

Blue mussel traps in St. Peter's Bay. Lots of fresh seafood available on P.E.I.

Saturday, 25 July 2026

Our last day on the trail. McVarish's Pond.

The end of the trail - km 273 - in Elmira. There's a small park and a small railroad museum here.

We rode an additional 6 miles to the East Point Lighthouse to finish our "tip-to-tip" ride. From here our shuttle took us back to Charlottetown.

Sunday, 27 July 2026

We left P.E.I. on the 10 AM ferry from Wood Islands, P.E.I. to Caribou, Nova Scotia.

Leaving Wood Islands, P.E.I.

The vehicle decks were tightly packed.